Tuesday, 20 October 2020

VW Jacket - McCalls 7513

I made this jacket during the summer, which is when I took these photos (hence the sandals), it's definitely woolly tights weather now.

This fabulous Vivienne Westwood Anglomania jacket was the inspiration.

The pattern I used is McCall's M7513, which my lovely friend Suzie from Threadquarters gave to me.

I used View C, but as you can see I changed it a bit...
  • I omitted the centre back seam as it's a straight line, and I didn't want to have to match that on the tartan fabric.
  • The peplum is a full circle and when I toiled it, it was too flouncy.  So I drafted a half circle peplum, and that was too flouncy too; so I ended up with a quarter circle peplum.  Also, I also shortened it a bit.
  • I completely re-drafted the neckline and collar, and used the wonderful Craftsy "Patternmaking And Design: Collars And Closures" class.
  • I drafted some pockets in the front peplum which took three toiles, and then it I changed it again and couldn't be bothered to do a forth toile - but it worked!  Also, a big thank you Diane from Dream Cut Sew, who has written two posts about her fabulous VW inspired jacket, and had some photos of the pocket flaps.  Here's a link, her jacket is amazing and the posts are a mine of information.  I totally copied the pocket flaps, but put the pleat on the other side.  Kind of wish I'd done the front peplum facing the same as Diane too - oh well... 

  • The lining on the pattern was of the "cut the main jacket pieces out again" variety, which I'm not on board with.  So I re-drafted the lining using this excellent tutorial from Grainline Design.  I've used this tutorial many times, and it's brilliant.

My fabric is some poly tartan that I think was the last piece of fabric I bought in The Spinning Wheel in Belfast before it closed (sob!!).  I interfaced everything with some lightweight woven interfacing from Tailormouse, and it's helped to give the jacket a bit of body.  Wish I'd interfaced the collar a bit better though.

All the interfacing was drafted using the Modern Tailoring section from the Craftsy "Essential Guide To Tailoring: Structure And Shape" class.  (I have nothing to do with Craftsy, and bought both classes I've mentioned; they are just really good classes!)

The lining fabric is some green polyester, which was also given to me by Suzie, and I think it looks fabulous with the tartan.  The buttons were salvaged from an beloved winter coat from Next that went to the recycling years ago as it was threadbare.  The top two buttonholes are bound buttonholes, and the bottom one is in the seam between the bodice and peplum.

I want to talk about the pattern matching for a minute.  I like to match tartan, because it looks really well when it's done; don't like having to actually do it so much though!  So everything was cut out on a single layer. 

For the collar, I couldn't work out how to match it and had originally cut it with the green lines going horizontally across the jacket, but my sister and I decided that it didn't look right.

So I re-cut it with the green going vertically across the jacket.  I picked the yellow line as the centre back of the collar because it was easy to see, then lined up the dark part of the tartan in the centre of the collar.  The fact that it matches so well at the front is a total fluke!!!

The polyester fabric isn't my favourite thing, but I was willing to sacrifice it to give this jacket a go.  I would love to try it in wool, as the polyester is a little stiff and I had to add some horse hair braid to the hem to give it some shape.  It would be interesting to see how the hem looked in wool, and I was thinking it could be pad-stitched to add some shape.

But all that said, I flipping love this jacket and it turned out exactly like it looked in my head!
I also made this dress, but that's for another post.


Happy sewing!



  1. Wow Lynne it's fabulous. Impressive pattern matching and beautifylly made. Thanks for the mention too 😘

    1. Oh thank you Diane!! And thanks again for your posts on your jacket, they were really helpful.

  2. That is some super-impressive pattern matching Lynne.

    1. Thanks Helen!! I impress myself sometimes!!

  3. It's a great jacket Lynne! And I'm with you on liking pattern matching once it's done but not enjoying the actual process!

  4. Hi Lynne - did you get around to posting about this gorgeous wee dress? Is it self drafted or a commercial sewing pattern? Regards, Sandra

    1. Thank you Sandra, I haven't got around to posting about the dress yet - it's on a very long to-do list! It's a self-drafted pattern, but it's sort of based on Vogue 8577. Hope that helps!


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