Saturday, 28 December 2019

Lady McElroy Vincent Sketch Christmas dress

This is an unusal make for me in that from idea to finish was a week and three days: normally a project rattles around my head for ages before I make it.



Here's what happened - I was idly browsing Instagram on Friday 6th December (probably in work...) when I saw the dress below on the Coco Fennell feed.  I love a look at their website, their dresses are beautiful, there's loads of inspiration and this one is a corker!

Source
I thought it would be lovely with the shirring on the cuffs from this dress, which is also from Coco Fennell.


Then later on that evening, I was browsing Instagram again, and lovely local sewist Becs from Oh Sew! had posted about some new fabrics in her shop.  Amongst them was this gorgeous Lady McElroy viscose called Vincent Sketch, and I couldn't order it fast enough!!


I got 2.5 metres, and it's even more beautiful in real life.  It's a medium weight viscose, and isn't as shifty as some, so was easy to cut out and work with.  I couldn't decide between green or brown for the bias tape trim, and ended up going with green.  This is 19mm wide poly/satin bias tape from ebay.

The pattern is all self-drafted, and I drafted and toiled it while I was waiting for the fabric to be delivered.  For the bodice front, I rotated the waist dart into the shoulder dart, and then cut out the yoke at the level of the under bust.  The dart was then rotated back to the under bust, and was then sewn as a gather.
 

For the neckline I didn't do the split, but sort of wish I had even done a little split.  I used the bias tape as facing by sewing the right side of the tape to the wrong side of the bodice and flipping it over to the front.  Then it was top-stitched down.  With hindsight, this wasn't one of my better ideas.  I'd have been better off doing a separate facing, and then top-stitching the bias tape to the whole thing, but it's grand!  

For the bodice back I drew in the yoke, and closed up the dart across it; then sewed the remaining dart on the upper back.  Also, I used a dress zip as I thought an invisible zip would be tricky with the bias tape.



The yoke is trimed with bias tape under the bust and above the waist.  The skirt is a half circle, and it's trimed with the bias tape above the hem.


The sleeves are my favourite bit, and they turned out how they looked in my head.  They are bishops sleeves with a gather at the sleeve head and shirring at the cuffs.  I drafted them  from a pattern drafting book called "Metric Pattern Cutting For Women's Wear" by Winifred Aldrich.



I marked 7 cm below the elbow on my sleeve block then slashed and spread the sleeve head as above, and added 6 cm in.  Then I slashed and spread the bottom of the sleeve as below, and made it 60 cm wide including the seam allowance.

 


Here's what the pattern piece looks like.


The cuffs are gathered with shirring, which was very easy to do after watching this great video from The Stitch Sisters, and I love how they turned out.





I'm loving my dress, which I wore on Christmas Day,and I hope Santa was good to everybody.








 

Have a great weekend,

Lynne

12 comments:

  1. What a gorgeous dress! You should be so proud of yourself. This is absolutely beautiful. It reminds me a bit of the "Biba" style. You have inspired me to sew my next project. Hope you had a great Christmas, you should have wearing this dress! All the best for Happy New Years. Love your blog!

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    1. Thank you so much, I do love Biba!! And good luck with your next project. :)

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  2. Oh my!!! Such a gorgeous dress! I love the colours, the perfect fit and the style. Have a great holidays and I hope to see more of your makes next year!

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    1. Thank you!! Aren't the colours in this fabric just gorgeous??

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  3. Stunning Lynne! Gorgeous colours on you too. Merry Christmas and Happy New year to you!

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    1. Thanks Elaine!! I'm loving the colours so much!

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  4. Wow that's a gorgeous dress. The fabric is perfect and I'm very tempted to go and find some. Really impressed that you can draft something that beautiful.

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  5. Gorgeous dress, it has a real vintage look! Happy New Year to you! x

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    1. Thank you Helen! And happy new year to you too.

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  6. A lovely dress Lynne - you're so good at turning inspiration into reality! It's always nice to have something new to wear at Christmas!

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Thank you for reading my blog! I love reading your comments, so please feel free to leave a comment if you have the time :) Lynne.