Friday, 6 September 2019

Jeanius Jeans - Make Nine #6

Spoiler: These are one of the best things I've ever made!! Unfortunately you'll just have to take my word for that, as they've proved pretty impossible to photograph because they are so dark.  They are also number 6 in my Make Nine



These are the Bluprint Jeanius jeans, which is a class that shows you how to take a pattern from a pair of jeans that fit well, and then sew them up. 

 

I have made the Closet Case Ginger Jeans before, but they were a bit big at the bum, and I had bought this class ages ago when Bluprint was still Craftsy.  Not going to lie, I was pretty daunted by it, and that was after my real-life sewing pal Ruth had assured me that she'd had great success with it.

So I put it on my Make Nine to make myself do it, as I have four pieces of denim suitable for jeans.  Also, time was pressing, because my original jeans are showing signs of age, and I kind of need jeans to wear!

I have exactly two pairs of jeans that I like that fit me well, and they are both exactly the same.  They are low-rise super skinny jeans from New Look (UK high street shop - nothing to do with New Look patterns).  I've had these jeans about six years, and one knee is out in one pair.

To make the pattern, first of all you thread-trace all the seams and details on the jeans with a different coloured thread, I used orange silk thread.  

Orange thread-tracing on the front pocket, side seam and zip fly.
Orange thread-tracing on back pocket, yoke and centre back seam.

Lengthwise and crosswise grainlines on front.
Lengthwise and crosswise grainline on back.
The jeans then get laid out flat, and you pin some silk organza to them.  You then trace over the thread with a pencil to get the seam lines of the jeans.   The back leg is draped over a sleeve board to work the whole way around it. 


 

The class is taught by Kenneth D King (who is now one of my favourite human beings), and he says that tracing the seams this way (rather than taking the jeans apart) means that the seams don't get distorted, so you get a more accurate pattern.  Also, this technique is transferable to any other garment.

Once everything is tranferred onto the silk organza, you then trace it onto pattern paper, true it up and add a seam allowance.  The class then shows you how to draft the front pockets, and pieces for the zip fly.

I used a combination of the Ginger jeans instructions and the instructions on the Jeanius class.  But I used the Jeanius fly instructions as the Ginger fly is a different shape, and this is the easiest and best fly zip I've ever sewn.




 


The Jeanius class uses a rectangle waistband, but I wanted a contoured waistband as that's what my original jeans have, and it made sense for low-rise jeans.  So I used the low-rise waistband pattern piece from the Ginger Jeans, and it worked perfectly!

My fabric is 11oz Indigo stretch denim from Guthrie and Ghani, and I can't get over how well they fit.  I'm delighted with them! I will definitely be making these again, but want to wear this pair for a bit to see how they settle in. 


Have a great weekend,

Lynne

8 comments:

  1. Wow Lynne! These are superb! So well made and the fit is fab. That class sounds brilliant.

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  2. Interesting post and fabulous jeans! I'll be checking out that class too!

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  3. I cannot even begin to comprehend making something as complicated as jeans, but you've smashed it!

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    1. Thanks Helen! They're really not as tricky as I'd thought they'd be.

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  4. Well done for tackling something that seemed a bit daunting! It looks like it was definitely worth all the hard work - your jeans are great. And I love the secret inside pop of colour with the matryoshkas on the pockets!

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    1. Thanks Ruth! The pocket fabric is definately the fabric that keeps on giving. I bought it years ago, and I think I got 3 metres. I made a dress with it, and have used it for facing and little things like that, and there's still some left!

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