Wednesday, 4 October 2017

Vogue 8346: View B - Part 6, Facing, Lining and Hem

The coat is finished, but before I get the finished photos post, I want to talk about the facing, lining and the hem.

Facing and lining

This bit is pretty difficult to photograph, as it just looks like a big jumbly mess of fabric.  Here's what the coat looks like on the dress form before the facing is attached.


My tailoring book recommended using knitted fusible interfacing on the upper collar and facings, so I got some black weft insertion fusible interfacing from Tailor Mouse.  I think this is where I got my canvas interfacing from, but I bought it ages ago.

There isn't a back neck facing piece on this pattern, so the lining at the back neckline attaches to the upper collar.  This meant that I  had to attach the lining, front facing and collar to the coat in one go - here it is before attaching.  See what I mean about a jumbly mess?!

Once it's sewn together, the seams are trimmed, graded and presses.  The bottom of the lining and the sleeve lining are left loose so everything can be turned right side out.

Next was making the windows in the back of the buttonholes.  My tailoring book, and a Craftsy video suggested cutting a slit into the facing and sewing to the back of the buttonhole.  One definitely didn't use any interfacing, which made me extremely nervous!  So I used the method in Karen from Did You Make That?'s ebook , and made the little "windows" for the buttonhole backs. 

I used some black cotton lawn for the backing, and I thought I had a photo of that bit, but clearly I don't!  The back of the buttonholes are then hand sewn to the fronts.


The coat sleeves are pressed up by 1 1/2", and hand sewn using a herringbone stitch, and the sleeve lining hem is folded back on itself, and hand stitched to the sleeve hem.

The coat hem is done in the same way.  I used some iron on woven interfacing cut on the bias to stablise the hem.  This is cut 1/2" longer than the hem, so mine is 2" because the hem is 1 1/2". 

The lining got sewed twice, because the first one looked like the cats had done it!  I originally did it the same as the sleeves - turning under and hand sewing to the coat hem - but it was a disaster!  The coat hem looked like a stack of spuds! 

Then I remembered about how the hem is done on a Craftsy class called "Inside Vogue Patterns: Coat Making Techniques V9040".  One of these days I'm going to make that coat, because it's gorgeous.  Anyway, this way has the hem free-hanging from the lining, and it made a lot more sense given the volume of the hem on my coat.

So everything got unpicked and I re-sewed the coat hem, and was delighted with how beautifully  it was hanging on the dress form.  The lining was cut to be level the with bottom of the coat, pressed up by 1/2" then turned in on itself and machine stitched.  Finally, it's attached to the coat at each seam with swing tacks.  I absolutely love how it turn out!


The last thing to do was to top-stitch the front and around the collar.  I was dreading the bits around the curve of the lapel and the collar.  So I googled a top stitching foot for my machine, but couldn't find one - then I thought to use my 1/4" foot.  Oh. My. Goodness!!  My top-stitching has never been nicer, and there was zero unpicking!

This is a fabric scrap I was practicing on, and  I took this photo after I'd finished the top stitching because I didn't have my camera to hand when I was doing the real thing.  You can maybe just about see the little "blade" to the right of the foot.

I used the normal straight stitch (not the 1/4" stitch) didn't move the needle, and this gave a row of stitches 1 cm from the edge of the fabric.  Here's a better photo of the 1/4" foot below.


I'm not going to hang about with posting finished photos, so click here for the reveal post where I also have a list of all the resources I used.  Spoiler alert: my coat is fabulous, and I love it!


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