Tuesday, 19 September 2017

Vogue 8346 - View B: Part 4, Canvas Interfacing

The next step on my coat is attaching the interfacing to the coat front and undercollar.  My resources on this were a Craftsy class called "Classic Tailoring: The Blazer", and a book called "Tailoring: the classic guide to sewing the perfect jacket".

I've found this book to be very useful, as it shows three different ways to interface a coat; the complicated and time-consuming way I'm doing, the quick and easy way with fusible interfacing, and a combination of the two.  Basically, the difference between them is the finish.

Anyway, both book and class show you how to make and attach an extra layer of interfacing at the shoulders.  Below you can see the outline for mine in green on my coat front pattern piece. 

And this is the actual pattern piece. 

This is cut from the canvas interfacing and is sewn to the shoulder.  Thankfully this can be done by machine, because the next bit is hours and hours of hand sewing! 

The lapel is pad-stitched to the front of the coat, then twill tape sewn to the roll line and edges. 

Then the under collar also gets pad-stitched, but it doesn't need twill tape.  The Craftsy class is great for a detailed explanation of this. 

Not going to lie, this bit is really time-consuming, and does get a bit tedious, but it's lovely once it's done! 

Finally, the collar and lapels are shaped with water and steam from the iron.  I got this technique from a Craftsy class called "The Starlet Suit Jacket by Gretchen Hirsch", but I don't think it's available any more.
Here's what I did - I sprayed the pad-stitching with water from a spray bottle, and then blasted it with steam from the iron, the iron doesn't touch the fabric though.  Then I shaped the collar around my ham, and held it in place with pins. 

One lapel was shaped using my seam roll, and the other with some rolled up tea towels.  Everything is left to dry, and can then be sewn up so it actually starts looking like a coat!

Next will be setting in the sleeves.



  1. Hi Lynne, thanks for posting this, I'm trying to pluck up the courage to make a start on my coat which apparently has a pad stitched under collar, this post is very enlightening!! x

    1. Thanks Helen! It's honestly not difficult, just time consuming! According to my tailoring book, this can be done by machine, but then the stitches would show. But who's looking at the underneath of a collar?!

  2. I love padstitching it makes such a difference. I made a fully tailored jack last year but for some reason used silk organza for interfacing the body and it is too light and floppy.

    1. I haven't been able to bring myself to use any other type of interfacing for a coat lapel, and it's interesting that you say that even silk organza is too lightweight. Definitely work all the time it takes to pad stitch!


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