If you follow me on Instagram, you will know that I have been making a jacket from Butterick 4610. This is definitely seems to be the year of the coat for me, as this is number two (the first one is here), and this one was made it using a Craftsy class called "Classic Tailoring: The Blazer". Just so you know, there are going to be a lot of photos in this post!!
I actually started it last autumn (maybe October?), and made a toile; but I knew I would need to make a few fitting alterations, and didn't have fabric for it yet. Then it was coming into winter, and it seemed a bit pointless to make something that I wouldn't wear for months because of the weather. So it got set aside, and I looked at it again when I was off work for a week in the middle of March.
In the meantime I had bought 2 metres of this grey wool fabric from Croft Mill Fabrics. It was called "Is that a hint?", (their fabric has such random names!), but I don't see it on the website now. When I decided to have another look at this in March, I have to say that I was a bit disappointed with my fabric. In my head it had some colour flecks through it, but it turned out that it didn't in real life, and I was afraid it would end up looking like a school blazer!
But then the very day I was lying on the sofa, browsing Pinterest (as you do), and this gorgeous Vivienne Westwood number popped up that had been pinned by Sian from Kittenish Behaviour. I seem to save a lot of things that she pins! Anyway, after I managed to stop myself from falling off the sofa, I knew I was going to use this as inspiration for my jacket.
So off I went on the search for black trim and gold buttons. The trim came from ebay and was about £6 for 4 yards. My buttons came from Sew N Sew in Belfast - the big one was £1.65, and the little ones were 85p. Inspiration now flowing, I shorted the sleeves and body, and added a bit to the waist and hips; made another toile, and I was good to go.
I was going to just use woven fusible interfacing for the lapels and collar, but couldn't bring myself to do it, and used canvas interfacing instead. Not going to lie, the hand sewing took for ever, but the lapels and collar are gorgeous! And then I had to hand sew all of trim. So. Much. Hand. Sewing!!!
|Under collar with the pad stitching done|
|And here it after it was shaped with steam on the tailor's ham.|
|This is how the lapels looked after they had been steamed over some rolled up tea towels. You can just see the 1/4" twill tape on the roll line and the edges of the lapels.|
|The class shows how to make a bound buttonhole, but I did a machined buttonhole. So I cut out a rectangle from the canvas interfacing, and used some fusible woven interfacing for the area where the buttonhole goes. I also used this woven interfacing on the hem.|
|This is what it looked like before the upper collar and facings were attached.|
My lining fabric is some polyester from Fabrics For Sale that was £4.25 per metre. I had bought some brown polka dot lining fabric for this, but didn't love it with the grey fabric, and the polyester was in my stash.
|Can you tell I love this lining?!|
I absolutely love how this jacket has turned out, and have been wearing this week now that the weather is getting better. Oh, and the reason why I'm calling it the "I've Been Viv-ed" jacket is because my cousin used to work in a Vivienne Westwood shop, and there was quite an amount of Vivienne Westwood accessories in my family at the time. Every time my aunty got something new, she would say "I've been Viv-ed"!!
Have a great weekend,