The adventures in blouse/collar drafting continue, and before I go any further, I have to say that I am delighted with how this turned out!
This blouse is based on a blouse I spotted on Pinterest.
My fabric is some black polyester crepe that was left over from my 1940s style dress. This fabric is just gorgeous, it's from Minerva Crafts, and I want a bolt of it in all the colours, but sadly it's only available in black. It was 60 inches wide, but I only had about 83 cms in length, so was pleased to be able to squeeze everything but the sleeves out of it.
I made a little shoulder yoke, as on my 1940s style dress; and instead of using a bust dart, I rotated it to the shoulder, and gathered it.
As with my last collar, this was drafted from the partial shawl collar on the Craftsy "Patternmaking And Design: Collars and Closures class". The roll line is where the collar folds over on itself, and the neckline is slightly curved. The insert at the shoulder (the shaded bit) is to allow for the shorter collar height, as it is not a full shawl collar. The pencil lines with arrows are the grainlines for the upper and under collar.
I was afraid that this collar would look a bit puny, but cut it out and sewed it on. Then I was happy to find it it looked grand!
Again, the under collar is cut on the bias,
and the armholes are finished with bias tape.
I don't know why, but I thought that princess seams would look well on the back. I don't love them, but I don't hate them either; I don't think I'll use them again on this style of blouse though. I also added 3/4" to each side seam, blending up to the waist.
This goes well with both skirts that I made for the #VintagePledge, and I have a few more variations planned, although having worn this and the first shawl collar blouse a few times, I am going to lower the front neckline a bit. Also, I might take 1 cm off the height of the back neck and inner shoulder edges. This was something that I was shown to do on shirt and convertible collars at my pattern drafting class, and I think it will open up the neckline a bit. I'll see how it goes, what's the worst that can happen?!
Have a great week,